There are several. It is a matter of personal choice, cost, and convenience. Hand watering to the base of the plants is effective but more time consuming. Some gardeners prefer using a garden hose attachment and bottle. Others may use a pressurized garden sprayer with a diluted solution in it, directly to the base of the plants. Some farmers have dripped a larger volume of concentrate into their irrigation ditches. For details, contact us.

Perhaps, one of the best automated and cost-effective systems we have seen so far is something called, “drip-tape irrigation.” It requires far less water than other methods, while injecting a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® more frequently.

By far, the least expensive method for watering and nutrient feeding entails recycling rinsed milk jugs. Fill them with water, add the proper dilution of Turboganic My Garden®, punch a pin hole at one side nearest the bottom, loosen the cap, and place the jug near the base of each plant. Once a week, fill them with a recommended dilution of Turboganic My Garden®. This slow trickle method, though not the most aesthetically appealing, will keep your plant roots moist with sufficient nutrients.

Let us know what other ways have worked for you and we will share them with others, and give you the credit!

I have read that ‘deep-feeding’ of trees and garden plants is very effective. Does this really work?

Generally, there is some truth here, but be cautious! Plants generally absorb about 30% of the water and nutrients they need in the top ¼ of their root zone and 40% of their required water and nutrients in the next quarter of the root zone. Twenty percent of their water and nutrient requirements are absorbed in the next quarter of the root zone, while about 10% of the water and nutrients are absorbed in the bottom quarter of the root zone. Most annual or some biennial plants do not send roots very deep, except for many weeds and grasses.

Deep feeding is good for perennials such as trees and shrubs and deep-rooted grasses, but those plants that have most of their roots in the top 12-18 inches of the soil will not benefit from nutrients being injected below the root zone. Thus, deep-feeding is OK for plants having roots that penetrate deeply into the soil and is of little or no benefit for shallower-rooted plants, and will only waste product. Regardless of the depth of injection, if you choose this method, Turboganic My Garden® will provide the most complete spectrum of plant nutrients.

Can I use Turboganic My Garden® as a foliar spray?

Yes, however, one problem with foliar spraying during the day, much like dew or rain, is that remnant water on the leaves tends to focus sunlight, like a magnifying lens, that can lead to leaf scalding and burn holes. Just be sure to apply foliar spray in the evening after the sun goes down. Turboganic My Garden® is not an exception in this regard.

Soil Conditions

Will Turboganic My Garden® improve any kind of soil conditions?

Generally, Turboganic My Garden® will improve any soil nutrient deficiency, BUT it is not a remedy for soil that poorly drains (or not at all), such as heavy clay, or soil that is so sandy that it will not retain moisture, or soil that is severely toxic.

For clay soils, it is best to add organic materials, such as compost or peat, to open the porosity of the clay and improve moisture retention. Fall is a good time to do this, turning the organics into the top 18” and letting it sit over the winter, before planting anything.

Early or late in the season, an inexpensive shortcut method is to harvest all of your neighbors leaves (no branches, twigs, or walnut leaves which unless thoroughly decomposed will prevent seeds from sprouting) and till them into the top 18”, mound them up, and cover with a few inches of good soil. Within weeks to a couple of months, the material will have broken down and be useful. Remember that the volume of organics will decrease as it decomposes and compresses. Spraying layers with a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) will accelerate healthy bacterial activity. Before planting, be sure to till your soil again for proper aeration.

Should I test my soil with soil test kits available at many garden shops?

These kits do have some problems, but they will help you if your soil is loamy or sandy and is low in any of the three primary nutrients (N-P-K: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Soils rich in composts or organics may cause the tests to read low due to the water used to extract the nutrients (for testing) to be so dark in color that you can’t tell what is really present or absent because concentration is based upon color intensity.

Also, high levels of organic compost can actually absorb some nutrients, especially nitrogen, and then slowly release the compound. This is good for the plants, but these kits aren’t very accurate in this aspect. Besides, they are expensive and have their limitations. Heavy clay soils or those rich in organics referred to above are excellent at absorbing the chemicals used in the tests and as a result may not give any valid results. The same applies to test strips.

In addition, there may be false readings if you are retesting after your soil has Turboganic My Garden® applied because our product's synergistic blend provides a much more efficient delivery of nutrients than much larger amounts in other supplement brands.

Some kits claim to be accurate for iron, but may not work on chelated iron very well, such as included with Turboganic My Garden®.

Composting

Compost is supposed to be very good for my garden. Is that true?

In general, yes…BUT the compost may not contain enough of the vital compounds your plants require IF the compost came from plants grown on nutrient-deficient soils, or was not properly decomposed. Compost is no better than the soil that the plants were grown in. It cannot produce something that wasn’t there to begin with.

The best service that compost provides is in making the soil more open and water-retentive and to aid in nutrient absorption and slow release. YES… composts can actually absorb a certain proportion of the applied nutrients and may not release then for some time.

Compost decomposition can be enhanced by spraying a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) occasionally as the compost is turned in the soil. Not only will the rich nutrients embed themselves into your compost, but it will significantly improve the microbial activity for quicker and more thorough decomposition which will clearly benefit your garden.

Is blood meal, bone meal, feather meal, and similar products as good as claimed?

Blood meal can actually elevate the nitrogen content of the soil quite rapidly and is known to cause soils to become acid to some degree. It is good if used properly, but do not assume that if a small amount is good for your soil, then larger amounts are even better.

Bone meal is also a source of phosphorus and may release small quantities of phosphorus over some years in the soil. Many soils in the western U.S. do not require phosphorus, they actually need to be less alkaline which will allow the phosphorus to be available. Strongly acid or alkaline soils tend to “tie up” nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus.

Feather meal is another high nitrogen product, but it too takes some time to degrade in the dry, alkaline soils of the western U.S.

By adding small quantities of bone meal, blood meal, and feather meal to your plant waste along with a small amount of finely ground rock to your compost for soil, it would provide an excellent plant growth supplement in a few months to a year or more, especially if a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) was added from time to time as the decomposing material is tilled in.

Safety Concerns

If I get Turboganic My Garden® on my skin or clothes (or pets), will it have any adverse effects?

In the more than 20 years of developing Turboganic My Garden®, no adverse effects to human or animal skin, or washable clothing has been observed. As safe as it is, it is not recommended for internal use. If you get in your eyes, just rinse your eyes well with lots of water. If you get this product on your pet, simply sponge off with a moist cloth.

My dog drank some diluted Turboganic My Garden® from a bucket I was mixing it in. Will it hurt my pet?

Cats and dogs have been observed licking a solution of Turboganic My Garden® from the leaves of plants with no harm; they seemed at times to prefer the enriched water. That being said, it is a good idea to not encourage your pets to drink anything but plain water. If they do happen to drink some, it may induce minor diarrhea but that’s about it. Other than that, no adverse effects have ever been noticed.

Do I need to wash my fruits and vegetables before I use them after applying Turboganic My Garden®?

Anyone who harvests plants from an outside garden or orchard (even organic) should always rinse all of the edible plant portions before you eat them. Here’s why… not only industrial pollutants, but also bio-pollutants (bird and bug droppings, dust, pollen, etc.) will be present on the exterior surface of the produce, as well as airborne pollutants. Indoor produce can be eaten without washing as long as cigarette smoke, room deodorants, etc, are not in the air during the growing period. If Turboganic My Garden® is applied to produce to be eaten, it is recommended to wash your fruits and vegetables as a matter of practice as described above.

Environmental Issues

I’m concerned about excess nutrients getting into our ground water, such as what happens with traditional fertilizers. Is this a problem with Turboganic My Garden®?

The short answer is no. That said, there are a few key factors involved including how much fertilizer is applied, and how well and quickly plants absorb these nutrients, not to mention proper watering.

Traditional fertilizers usually focus on full area application of N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium). Since absorption by plants is poor in this case, there is excess which is easily washed into water tables. Of course these elements are needed, but it is always more effective having these nutrients closer to the roots. Additionally, synthetic chelating agents, such as EDTA, can retard nutrient absorption, kill off vital soil bacterial organisms, and encourage early release of harmful compounds into our water tables.

Turboganic My Garden® has resolved this issue in several ways: 1) lesser amounts of N-P-K is required because they are 95% bio-availability and the synergistic effect of its naturally-occurring formula, which also includes non-synthetic chelating agents for better and quicker nutrient absorption. 2) Hundreds of micro and sub-micro nutrients (many in the parts per million) are readily absorbed to maximum plant development. 3) Soil bacteria is significantly enhanced which, in turn, break down nutrient compounds and promote oxygenation of root systems, both of which increase absorption. 4) Lastly, by applying Turboganic My Garden® at the end of a watering cycle, complex nutrients are allowed to “wick” throughout a moistened soil to enhance the root system of each plant for more complete absorption, while virtually eliminating environmental run off.

Are birds that feed on worms and the like affected by Turboganic My Garden®?

Observationally, birds appear to be healthy, producing several broods per season, and return frequently without apparent negative side effects. Other birds return annually to feed off of sunflower seeds grown using Turboganic My Garden®.

Houseplant Care

How often should I feed my houseplants with Turboganic My Garden®?

As a general rule of thumb, houseplants have a smaller soil environment, so use less of the diluted Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water). Every 7 to 10 days is sufficient, in lieu of a normal watering. It is better to err on the side of “less is more,” and increase your concentrations (up to 3 tablespoons of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) depending upon how your plants respond. Be patient and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Certain plants, such as ferns, grow best under LOW mineral soil conditions, therefore it is recommended to apply a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) once every other week.

It seems that I have the worst of luck with houseplants. They never live very long. What gives?

You may be missing some critical information. If the nursery from where your plant originated used commercial fertilizers (and most do), a residue of salt-based compounds that the plant doesn't use build up over time (the same may be true of your own outdoor garden). These salts will actually create a reverse osmosis process that will pull nutrients from your plant roots into the soil.

For potted plants, try this… set the potted plant in a container of body temperature water, or carefully take the balled up plant roots with the soil out of the pot, and place into a bowl of warm tap water (overnight), then drain well to remove the accumulated salts, etc. Once drained, fill in any lost potting soil and return to pot.

Furthermore, if the roots appear to be packed tightly, your plants may be also root-bound and you may want to consider a larger pot (add potting soil as needed). In either case, next, add a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) as you would for a regular watering. Your plants will love it!

Do I need to fertilize my houseplant cuttings? Seedlings?

Generally, no. The vascular tissues on the cut surfaces may actually absorb (or try to absorb) the nearby nutrients, but are unable to do so and actually lose vital water into the potting mix. A medium sand or vermiculite-sand mixture rooting medium is about the best way to start most cuttings. Bacteria and fungi in very rich soil can invade the vascular tissues and block water intake. Also, high organic levels tend to result in very moist soils and seedlings can die from a variety of soil-borne diseases. It’s better to keep your cuttings after rooting a bit hungry and use a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) in a moist (not wet) rooting medium. Some cuttings root better in rain or tap water than they do in soil… so rely on the texts related to houseplants for starting cuttings and seeds.

Seedlings at their earliest growth stage still have reserves from the seeds, but rapid growth can quickly deplete these stores, thus feeding should start about the time the first true leaves appear. Also, seedlings from very small seeds will usually require feeding shortly after germination while seedlings from larger seeds have greater reserves to draw upon.

How often should I water and or feed my cacti or succulents?

If you are really into succulents or cacti… once a month during their dormant phase is adequate. As their "spring" approaches, apply a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) once every other week. Or, you can try this diluted application once a month, alternating once every two weeks with plain water.

Some succulents are from tropical regions and only require watering just prior to or during their flowering-growth phase and little water during their dormant phase. Since there are so many types of cacti and succulents, one should consult the special books on these plants and try to follow the methods used by some of the successful specialty growers.

Seed Germination

I have some seeds left over from my earlier efforts at planting. Can I save them for another season?

In our research, we have planted 6-8 year old string beans, 4-6 year old carrot, lettuce, parsley, and chili seeds, and 6-year old cabbage and beet seeds. Germination was at least as good as the fresh seeds bought for comparative purposes when seeds were soaked overnight in a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water).

In addition, not only was germination good, but plant viability was such that no differences were observed between plants from ‘fresh seed’ and the plants from the ‘old-outdated’ seeds.

Will Turboganic My Garden® perform well as a seed pre-treatment solution?

Yes. In trials with a variety of seeds from lettuce to Kentucky Coffee Tree (try hack-sawing this one some time), a weaker dilution of Turboganic My Garden® (1 tablespoon of super-concentrate per gallon of tap water) coupled with gentle warmth from the bottom has resulted in lettuce sprouting and producing their first leaves within 24 hours of planting. Kentucky Coffee Tree seeds which normally require weeks to years to sprout produced healthy seedlings within 7-10 days. Garden beans, peas, and many herbs germinated with 24-36 hours and could be readily transplanted without shock or setback after this. In every trial, pre-treatment greatly accelerated germination as compared to using bottom heating with no treatment.

Carrots, string beans, chilis, squash, basil, and lettuce were transplanted with little or no ‘shock’ and continued growing without setbacks.

Planting

If I am just starting out young or old transplants, or seedlings, do I need to add as much Turboganic My Garden® as recommended?

We recommend you simply use a lessor amount of Turboganic My Garden® (as per label) but keep the concentration constant as this is helpful to keep the osmotic pressure uniform. Shallow roots on seedlings certainly don’t require extended watering periods that can carry the nutrients deep into the subsoil and even into the nearest water supply. As the plants grow, increase the water and nutrient supply to compensate for increased growth. As fall comes on and growth slows down, don’t water so much as the soil will usually stay moist for longer periods in the cooler weather.

Water Gardens & Ponds

I have a water garden with fish, lilies, etc. Will Turboganic My Garden® help my fish or water plants?

Water gardens seldom require fertilization because the fish are usually providing most of the nutrients the plants require (except for water, sunlight, and carbon dioxide), if their food is nutritionally well-balanced. While some carbon dioxide from the fish is absorbed by the plants, most of it is taken in from the atmosphere. The fish also release ammonia which is rapidly converted to nitrites and then to nitrates by bacteria before it can be absorbed by the plants.

It is not recommended to add any fertilizer to water gardens even Turboganic My Garden® unless there are no fish in the water garden. Even then, dilute the product to 1/100 rather than the recommended concentrations and use sparingly to avoid “green algae filled water.”

Climate Stress Tolerance

In the past, my squash, pumpkins, and cucumbers generally seemed to wilt badly in full sun… will Turboganic My Garden® help with this?

Yes. This plant behavior is called “incipient wilting” and is normal and common for these plants in the mid-day sun and heat. They generally will perk up as the sun goes down or with cloud coverage. If the plants don’t perk up… it is usually due to insect damage (squash borer, cucumber beetle, etc.) which needs to be given attention. Plants seem to be much more resistant to chilling or high temperatures and develop stronger root systems and vegetative structures using Turboganic My Garden®.

However, since Turboganic My Garden® strengthens plant cell development for climate-stress extremes of wind, heat and frost, as well as drought and over-watering. It does so while your harvest grows tender and sweet with extended shelf-life.

Soil Micro-Organisms

Will Turboganic My Garden® harm my soil organisms?

In practice, I have seen soils improve and night crawler population increase while pill bugs, earwigs, grubs, etc. decrease. Although Turboganic My Garden® contains no insecticides or pesticides, the population of soil microbes is much enhanced and may help control some insect pests indirectly through natural means, such as soil-borne insect diseases, fungi, etc.

Bees and butterflies return time after time to flowering plants fertilized with Turboganic My Garden® and are by all appearances and activities very healthy.

Weed Control

Will weeds grow as well as the rest of the desired plants?

In this case, unfortunately Turboganic My Garden® is not a weed-killer and will benefit most growing plants. The best weed control is to use some form of mulch, black plastic, carpet, etc around your plants to curb weeds in the first place. Popular herbicides will actually leach nutrients from your plants into the surrounding soil.

Insect Issues

Will Turboganic My Garden® help my plants to be more insect resistant?

In trials, in which plants were suffering insect damage, the application of Turboganic My Garden® has been very helpful as very strong healthy plants can either resist insect invasions or repair themselves when the damage is minor.

Disease

My tomatoes sometimes have a brown-rotted or a dry spot on their bud ends. Will Turboganic My Garden® prevent this?

Turboganic My Garden® will generally help plants to be more disease resistant. However, in this case, it is not likely (we didn't say impossible) as some varieties of tomatoes are genetically prone to “blossom end rot” as it is called. Sprinkling the leaves of plants can be the cause of the problem as water collects on the bottom of the fruit and results in a number of problems, including bacterial or fungus “rots.” In some tomatoes, the problem is caused by a lack of calcium in the plants. Contact us for other possible solutions. Turboganic My Garden® does contain calcium and magnesium and can be beneficial to certain varieties, but not those with the genetic problems causing the disease. Watering the roots can prevent blossom-end rot in many situations, but not where dew or rainfall causes water droplets to form on the blossom end of the fruit.

Growth Abnormalities

My tomatoes have grown tremendously tall and have many leaves, flowers and fruit. The fruit doesn’t seem to ripen even though the season is advanced, what’s wrong?

Tomatoes tend to typically grow vigorously with the application of nitrogen. Some master gardeners recommend adding additional phosphorus (Turboganic My Garden® should be sufficient for these needs), but the easiest solution is to simply prune away the top leaves and flowers after Labor Day, since they are not likely to be of benefit. The fruit should ripen as a “survival” mechanism and still be a very high quality.

Harvest Shelf-Life

Does Turboganic My Garden® have any impact on produce other than making more robust plants, greener leaves, and more fruit?

Yes. Lettuce kept well for thirty days in the refrigerator after harvesting, tomatoes and sweet peppers are sweeter, chilis are hotter, and herbs have more intense aromas and flavors. Squash (summer) were tender for longer periods while winter squashes kept throughout the entire winter and into summer with no molding or rot after being raised on Turboganic My Garden®.

Storage Issues

Is Turboganic My Garden® affected by temperature extremes?

Turboganic My Garden® has been stored for years at both very high and low temperatures, even left in the bright sun for weeks with no apparent damage or less than stellar effect on plants. Freezing does not harm the product, but it does cause the constituents to separate. If your Turboganic My Garden® has been frozen, simply thaw to room temperature naturally and mix well… it will work as though nothing happened.

I left the cap off the bottle and now the level of solution is lower than before due to evaporation… what should I do?

Simply add tap water to the Turboganic My Garden® super-concentrate, or to a dilution solution if it already has been mixed, up to the previous dark line on the bottle. Cap and mix well… it will be suitable for use.

Why is Turboganic My Garden® so dark in color?

Turboganic My Garden® contains a broad spectrum of plant derivatives that are high in biologically-available carbon compounds as well as a variety of compost extracts, all of which are darkly colored. Although similar to compost tea in color, Turboganic My Garden® is also rich in critical organometallic compounds and additional nutrients. Don’t worry that your plants will turn brown or black. Darker green will be the norm.

Over time you will notice that when Turboganic My Garden® sits on a shelf for awhile that there is virtually no sediment at the bottom of the bottle (unless it freezes). That is because the micro nutrients stay in solution, and therefore confirm its bio-availability to your plants.

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